Monday, June 24, 2013

Summer Solstice

The summer solstice (the longest day of the year and the beginning of summer in the Northern hemisphere) is rarely celebrated or marked in our culture anymore.  However, day length (well and night length and whether days are getting shorter or longer) plays a very important role in fruit and vegetable production.  Most people know that plants are affected by the amount of sun and temperature and the amount of rain or water, but few focus on the role that day length has on plant growth and production and particularly how day length affects growth when those other factors (sun, temperature, and water) are also not held constant.  Long-day plants are those that start to bloom as the days become longer (this often means they are no longer usable as edible crops).  Most of these are what we think of as cold-weather plants, like spinach; however, there are several more complicated ones (mostly brassicas) such as cauliflower, which has long-day varieties (which produce as we approach the summer solstice) and short-day varieties (which produce as we approach the winter solstice).  Short-day plants are those that start to bloom as the days become shorter (most of these are warm-weather plants).  There are also day-neutral plants that aren't affected by day length at all.  
Beyond all these factors to scheduling and planting, the summer solstice is very important on many vegetable farms because it signals that it is time for onion and garlic harvest (give or take a few days in either direction based on variety and weather).  I love to watch the onions and garlic respond.  The onions bowing their leaves to the ground - an almost reverse surrender (as opposed to raising the white flag) to nature's course and their fate.  The leaves on the garlic seem to suddenly dry and droop, a similar recognition of time come.  Harvesting all those onions and garlic is a big job, but it somehow seems like a celebration - a farmer's anniversary and a way to mark the half way point (when the winter solstice arrives in December, there will no longer be enough daylight for plant growth, signally our opportunity to rest, harvesting what is left in the fields as needed).  

Here are some recipes for this half-way point, which this year seems to be exactly in tune with those other factors (sun, clouds, rain, and temperature).  Most of our "spring" vegetables are either done or look like they will call it quits this week or next, and many of our summer vegetables are beginning to thrive.  

Still looking for a fennel recipe...try this one.  This recipe includes leeks, which we will start handing out next week.

Leek, Scallion, and Fennel Gratin
From Deborah Madison's "Local Flavors"


3 large leeks, white parts only
2 fennel bulbs, about 6 ounces each
salt and pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 bunch scallions, including and inch of the greens, sliced
1/4 cup chopped fennel greens
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 large eggs
1 1/2 cups milk or half-and-half
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Lightly butter a 2-quart gratin dish. Chop the leeks into 1/2 inch pieces and wash them well in plenty of water, separating the rings.  Let them soak while you trim and quarter the fennel.  Slice the fennel very thinly, including the core.  Bring a skillet of water to a boil; add the fennel and a pinch of salt.  Simmer until the fennel is translucent, about 2 minutes, then drain. 

Melt the butter in a wide skillet.  Lift the leeks out of their soaking water and add them to the pan along with the fennel. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the leeks are tender, about 10 minutes, adding the scallions after 5 minutes.  Add the fennel greens and lemon zest, taste for salt, and season with pepper.  Scrape the veggies into the prepared dish.

Beat the eggs and milk together and add 1/2 teaspoon salt plus the cheese.  Pour it over the veggies, then bake until the top is browned here and there in places, about 40 minutes.  Let rest for a few minutes and serve. 
 


Braised Spring Onions, Fennel, and Swiss Chard 

Serves 4.

Extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, smashed
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
3 small green bulb onions, julienned
2 small fennel bulbs, thinly sliced
1 bunch Swiss chard, stems cut into 1/2-inch lengths, leaves cut into 1-inch lengths, leaves and stems reserved separately (you could also use New Zealand spinach)
Kosher salt
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 Meyer lemon, zested on a microplane and juiced, zest and juice reserved separately

Coat a large saute pan with olive oil. Toss in the smashed garlic and crushed red pepper and bring the pan to a medium heat. When the garlic becomes golden brown and very aromatic, remove it from the pan and discard it. It has fulfilled its garlic destiny.
Add the onions, fennel and Swiss chard stems, stir to coat with the oil and season with salt, to taste. Stir in the white wine and the lemon zest and juice. Cover and cook over medium heat until the veggies have become soft and wilted but still maintain some texture, about 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the lid and cook until most of the liquid has reduced, another 3 to 4 minutes. Toss in the Swiss chard leaves, stir to combine and season with salt, to taste. When the leaves have wilted but still look vibrantly green, taste for seasoning. Reseason if needed (it probably will). Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.


I assume most of you have never eaten New Zealand spinach until now.  It is rarely available, but grows well here after spring spinach has gone to seed (because the days were getting longer!).  Here are a few ideas: 


Tetragon (New Zealand Spinach) Pasta (from chocolateandzucchini.com)
7 ounces short pasta
4 generous handfuls tetragon leaves (a.k.a. 
New Zealand spinach)
a pinch chili pepper flakes
1 clove garlic, finely minced
4 filets salted anchovies packed in oil, drained and quickly rinsed to remove excess salt
olive oil
freshly grated nutmeg
salt, pepper
parmesan or pecorino, freshly grated, for serving
Bring salted water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente.
While the pasta is cooking, heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add a good swirl of olive oil, and when hot, add the chili pepper and garlic, and cook for a minute or two without coloring. Add the anchovies and crush them with a wooden spoon so they'll dissolve in the olive oil.
Add the tetragon to the skillet, sprinkle it with a touch of nutmeg, stir, and let it soften just a little (not too much!) in the heat. Remove from the heat. (Alternatively, if you wish to blanch the tetragon because you're concerned about the oxalic acid -- see note above --, add it to the pot of pasta during the last 30 seconds of cooking to blanch it instead of sautéing it.)
When the pasta is al dente, drain (not too thoroughly; keeping a little of the starchy cooking water makes it silkier) and pour into the skillet. Toss to combine over low heat, sprinkle with pepper and divide between two warmed pasta bowls. Top with grated cheese and serve immediately.

Aussie Alfredo
12 ounces tagliatelle or fettucine
1 pint heavy cream
1/2 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
2 cups cooked shredded or diced chicken meat
2 cups cooked New Zealand spinach
 (or spinach or chard leaves), coarsely chopped
Salt and fresh ground pepper
1/2 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts

Optional:
Halved red and yellow cherry tomatoes tossed in balsamic vinegar and olive oil.
Grated parmesan cheese.

 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to the package directions until al dente. Drain.
2. While the pasta cooks, heat the cream in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until reduced by half, stirring often.
3. Stir in the chicken stock, nutmeg, chicken, and greens. Heat until ingredients are warmed through. Mix in the pasta. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add more broth if the mixture seems too thick.
4. Pour the pasta into a serving bowl and sprinkle with the hazelnuts. If desired, serve with the tomato salad sprinkled on top of the pasta to balance the richness of the sauce.

Most folks usually welcome the arrival of summer squash, although by August they are usually ready to see it gone!  We are growing several heirloom varieties this season, including Summer Crookneck Squash (grown by Native Americans prior to colonist arrival), Cocozelle, and Tatume squash (a Tex-Mex border specialty that does well in hot, dry weather, see http://www.survivalblog.com/cgi-bin/mt5/mt-search.cgi?search=tatume&IncludeBlogs=2&limit=20).  A summer squash recipe or two for those of you who struggle with it.

Summer Squash and Citrus Pesto Salad (from Tucson CSA)  
I really recommend trying summer squash this way as a pasta replacement.  Make any sauce you want.
1 share summer squash (4-5 small squash)
2 loose cups of basil
1 jalapeno lightly chopped
1/3-1/2 cup of chopped walnuts or whole pine nuts
3 cloves of garlic (roughly chopped)
1 teaspoon sea salt and
Black pepper to taste
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Zest of one lemon, juice from half the lemon

Blend basil, jalapeno, garlic, 1/4 cup nuts, 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/3 cup of olive oil in a food processor or blender until it becomes a fine paste. Thinly slice the summer squash into ribbons. Toss summer squash with about 1/2 cup of the pesto or to taste.
Add lemon zest and juice to the salad. Add remaining nuts and toss. Check seasonings to taste.
If this makes more pesto than you can use for the squash, it will easily keep for at least a week in the fridge. Use it on pasta, rice, or other dishes.

Italian Scones

1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
2 tsp  granulated organic sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cold and cut into small pieces
3/4 cup  old-fashioned rolled oats
1/2 cup summer squash, minced
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup fennel, minced (Yes, it has fennel, too!)
1/2 cup eggplant, minced
1/2 cup mozzerella cheese, shredded
1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped
2/3 cup (160 ml) buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C) and place rack in center of oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl place the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, baking powder and whisk to combine. Add the butter and using two knives or a pastry blender cut in the butter until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add the rolled oats, vegetables and cheese. Mix until combined. Stir in the buttermilk (adding more buttermilk if necessary) and mix just until the dough comes together.
Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead the dough four or five times and then pat, or roll, the dough into a circle that is 7 inches (18 cm) round and about 1 1/2 inches (3.75 cm) thick. Cut this circle into 8 circular sections. Place the scones on the prepared baking sheet.
Bake for about 15 – 18 minutes or until lightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool.


Monday, June 10, 2013

Fennel, Beets, and Kohlrabi Recipes

Here are some simple recipes to go along with some of the veggies in your bin this week:

Fennel- (Think of using fennel in the same way that you would use onions).

Roasted Curried Fennel
Ingredients:
Fennel Bulb-1 sliced thinly from top to bottom
Curry Powder-2 tsp
Red Chili/paprika/cayenne-1 tsp
Salt-to taste
Extra Virgin Olive Oil-2 tbsp

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Mix the spices in a bowl.
In a greased baking sheet arrange the sliced fennel and sprinkle the spice mixture generously on both sides.
Pour some EVOO all over.
Bake in the oven for about 20 mins until all golden.



Halibut with Tomatoes and Fennel
Ingredients:
2 cups couscous
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 large fennel bulb, thinly sliced lengthwise, plus fronds (optional) for serving
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 garlic clove, minced
4 large tomatoes, diced large
1 1/2 pounds halibut, skin removed, cut into 8 small fillets

Directions:
1. Cook couscous according to package instructions.
2. In a large skillet with a tight-fitting lid, heat oil over medium. Add fennel and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent, 4 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to soften and release their juices, 3 to 4 minutes. Nestle halibut in tomato mixture and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook until fillets are opaque throughout, 8 minutes.
3. Fluff couscous with a fork. Reserve 2 1/4 cups for another meal. To serve, divide remaining couscous and halibut-tomato mixture among four shallow bowls and sprinkle with fennel fronds, if desired.

http://shine.yahoo.com/food/recipes/halibut-with-tomatoes-and-fennel-852358-mslo.html



Roasted Shrimp with Feta and Fennel
Ingredients:
4 tablespoons good olive oil, divided
1 1/2 cups medium-diced fennel
1 tablespoon minced garlic (3 cloves)
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon Pernod
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/4 pounds (16 to 20 per pound) peeled shrimp with tails on
5 ounces good feta cheese, coarsely crumbled
1 cup fresh bread crumbs (see note)
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 lemons

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 10-or 12-inch heavy ovenproof skillet over medium-low heat. Add the fennel and saute for 8 to 10 minutes, until the fennel is tender. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the wine and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the tomatoes with the liquid, tomato paste, oregano, Pernod, salt, and pepper to the skillet. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes.
Arrange the shrimp, tails up, in one layer over the tomato-mixture in the skillet. Scatter the feta evenly over the shrimp. In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs, parsley, and lemon zest with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and sprinkle over the shrimp.
Bake for 15 minutes, until the shrimp are cooked and the bread crumbs are golden brown. Squeeze the juice of 1 lemon over the shrimp. Serve hot with the remaining lemon cut into wedges.
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/roasted-shrimp-with-feta-recipe/index.html



Beets

Herbed Beets with Fennel
Ingredients:
6 medium beets
2 large fennel bulbs
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter (1/4 stick)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup dry vermouth
2 tablespoons whole-grain Dijon mustard
Juice of 1 medium lemon
1/2 bunch chives, finely chopped
1/2 bunch tarragon, leaves picked, finely chopped

Directions:
Place the beets in a large pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the beets are fork tender, about 30 minutes. Drain, then peel under cold running water. Set the beets aside to cool.
Trim any green tops off the fennel and slice the bulbs in half lengthwise. Remove the core from each half and slice the bulbs lengthwise in 1/4-inch-thick strips.
Return the large pot to the stove, add the olive oil and butter, and heat over medium heat. When the butter foams, add the fennel, season well with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 5 minutes.
Add the vermouth, mustard, and lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, slice the peeled beets into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Add the beets to the pot and cook until warmed through, about 5 minutes more. Stir in the herbs, taste, and adjust the seasoning as desired. This can be served warm or cold.


Lemony Roasted Beets
Prep time:  
Cook time: 
Serves 4

Ingredients:
6 medium sized beets
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (or to taste) (30 ml)
1/4 teaspoon lemon zest (1 ml)
1/2 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil (2 ml)
pinch of salt
1/4 cup feta cheese (optional)
2 tablespoons sunflower seeds or pumpkin seeds (optional)


Directions:
Preheat oven to 375°F. Toss all the ingredients together in an 8 inch (20.5 cm) square non-reactive baking dish, except the feta cheese and seeds. Cover the baking dish tightly with foil and roast the beets in a preheated 375°F (190°C) oven for about 40 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Shake or stir occasionally. Top with crumbled feta cheese and sunflower seeds or pumpkin seeds.


Herb Goat Cheese Tart with Roasted Beets
Ingredients:
-Marinated roasted beets 
2 golden beets
2 small red beets
1 small Albina Vereduna, white variety (optional)
2 garlic cloves, smashed
4 Tbsp olive oil
2Tbs sherry vinegar
sea salt, fresh ground pepper
2 Tbsp fresh thyme

-For the pastry
1cup whole wheat pastry flour and
1 1/2 all- purpose flour or if you prefer use 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
1/4 to 1/2 cup ice water

-For the filling
10 ounces soft mild goat cheese
1 cup ricotta cheese
3 large egg yolks
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon chopped mixed fresh herbs such as thyme, rosemary, oreganofor garnish
fresh chopped herbs, baby arugula
fresh ground pepper, sea salt

Directions:
To roast the beets wrap them in aluminum foil, place on the baking sheet and bake for about 30-40 min in 425°F oven, wait until cool enough to handle and use paper towels to slip the skins off. Slice thinly and place red and golden beets in two separate bowls. Mix olive oil, vinegar, garlic, thyme salt and pepper, pour over each bowl, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
In the mean time mix all of the ingredients for the pastry dough until smooth, flatten into a disc, wrap and refrigerate until ready to use ( at least 30 min).
In the food processor blend all the ingredients for the filling, until smooth.
Preheat oven to 350°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough to a 1/8-inch-thick rectangular shape( if you're using this kind of pan) . Roll the dough around the rolling pin, and lift it over a tart pan with a removable bottom( I used 10.5x7.5). Line the pan with the dough, pressing it into the corners.You'll most likely use only 2/3 of prepared dough. Prick dough all over with a fork. Transfer to refrigerator to chill for about 30 minutes. Bake for 10-15 min on the middle rack. Remove from oven, add the feeling and bake on the middle rack for another 30 min. Remove from oven, arrange the beets on top, garnish with chopped thyme, oregano and baby arugula, drizzle with some oil and vinegar mixture saved from marinating beets. 



Kohlrabi

Kohlrabi and Cabbage Salad with Maple Lemon Dressing
Serves 6-8


Ingredients:
4 bulbs kohlrabi (I used 2 fennel bulbs and slice them thin,)
3 c shredded green cabbage
1/3 c dried cherries
1/4 c salted, roasted sunflower seeds
1/4 c chopped fresh dill
1/4 c extra virgin olive oil
3 T real maple syrup
Zest of 1 lemon
Juice of 2 lemons
1 minced garlic clove
1/4 t kosher salt
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper

Directions:
If using kohlrabi, remove long stems and greens. Trim away the thick green skin until you reach the light green to white part that is free of tough fibers. Shred on the medium holes of a box grater or in a food processor fitted with the shredder disc. For fennel, just wash and slice into half moons.

Combine kohlrabi or fennel, cabbage, cherries, sunflower seeds and dill in a large serving bowl. In a small jar with a tight fitting lid, combine olive oil, maple syrup, lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper. Shake to combine. Pour dressing over salad and toss to coat well. Let sit for about 20 minutes before serving.
http://thisishowicook.blogspot.com/2013/05/kohlrabi-fennel-cabbage-salad-with.html



Kohlrabi Slaw
Ingredients:
2 cups chopped cabbage
4 kohlrabi bulbs, peeled and grated
2 stalks celery, sliced thin
2 carrots, sliced thin
2 tablespoons minced fresh onion
1/3 cup white sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon celery seed
1/2 cup mayonnaise
4 1/2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar


Directions:
Toss the cabbage, kohlrabi, celery, carrot, and onion together in a large bowl.
Whisk the sugar, salt, pepper, celery seed, mayonnaise, and vinegar together in a separate bowl until smooth; pour over the cabbage mixture and stir to coat evenly. Chill in refrigerator 1 hour before serving.

http://allrecipes.com/recipe/kohlrabi-slaw/detail.aspx?event8=1&prop24=SR_Title&e11=kohlrabi&e8=Quick%20Search&event10=1&e7=Recipe