Summer Solstice

The summer solstice (the longest day of the year and the beginning of summer in the Northern hemisphere) is rarely celebrated or marked in our culture anymore.  However, day length (well and night length and whether days are getting shorter or longer) plays a very important role in fruit and vegetable production.  Most people know that plants are affected by the amount of sun and temperature and the amount of rain or water, but few focus on the role that day length has on plant growth and production and particularly how day length affects growth when those other factors (sun, temperature, and water) are also not held constant.  Long-day plants are those that start to bloom as the days become longer (this often means they are no longer usable as edible crops).  Most of these are what we think of as cold-weather plants, like spinach; however, there are several more complicated ones (mostly brassicas) such as cauliflower, which has long-day varieties (which produce as we approach the summer solstice) and short-day varieties (which produce as we approach the winter solstice).  Short-day plants are those that start to bloom as the days become shorter (most of these are warm-weather plants).  There are also day-neutral plants that aren't affected by day length at all.  
Beyond all these factors to scheduling and planting, the summer solstice is very important on many vegetable farms because it signals that it is time for onion and garlic harvest (give or take a few days in either direction based on variety and weather).  I love to watch the onions and garlic respond.  The onions bowing their leaves to the ground - an almost reverse surrender (as opposed to raising the white flag) to nature's course and their fate.  The leaves on the garlic seem to suddenly dry and droop, a similar recognition of time come.  Harvesting all those onions and garlic is a big job, but it somehow seems like a celebration - a farmer's anniversary and a way to mark the half way point (when the winter solstice arrives in December, there will no longer be enough daylight for plant growth, signally our opportunity to rest, harvesting what is left in the fields as needed).  

Here are some recipes for this half-way point, which this year seems to be exactly in tune with those other factors (sun, clouds, rain, and temperature).  Most of our "spring" vegetables are either done or look like they will call it quits this week or next, and many of our summer vegetables are beginning to thrive.  

Still looking for a fennel recipe...try this one.  This recipe includes leeks, which we will start handing out next week.

Leek, Scallion, and Fennel Gratin
From Deborah Madison's "Local Flavors"

3 large leeks, white parts only
2 fennel bulbs, about 6 ounces each
salt and pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 bunch scallions, including and inch of the greens, sliced
1/4 cup chopped fennel greens
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 large eggs
1 1/2 cups milk or half-and-half
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Lightly butter a 2-quart gratin dish. Chop the leeks into 1/2 inch pieces and wash them well in plenty of water, separating the rings.  Let them soak while you trim and quarter the fennel.  Slice the fennel very thinly, including the core.  Bring a skillet of water to a boil; add the fennel and a pinch of salt.  Simmer until the fennel is translucent, about 2 minutes, then drain. 

Melt the butter in a wide skillet.  Lift the leeks out of their soaking water and add them to the pan along with the fennel. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the leeks are tender, about 10 minutes, adding the scallions after 5 minutes.  Add the fennel greens and lemon zest, taste for salt, and season with pepper.  Scrape the veggies into the prepared dish.

Beat the eggs and milk together and add 1/2 teaspoon salt plus the cheese.  Pour it over the veggies, then bake until the top is browned here and there in places, about 40 minutes.  Let rest for a few minutes and serve.  

Braised Spring Onions, Fennel, and Swiss Chard 

Serves 4.

Extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, smashed
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
3 small green bulb onions, julienned
2 small fennel bulbs, thinly sliced
1 bunch Swiss chard, stems cut into 1/2-inch lengths, leaves cut into 1-inch lengths, leaves and stems reserved separately (you could also use New Zealand spinach)
Kosher salt
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 Meyer lemon, zested on a microplane and juiced, zest and juice reserved separately

Coat a large saute pan with olive oil. Toss in the smashed garlic and crushed red pepper and bring the pan to a medium heat. When the garlic becomes golden brown and very aromatic, remove it from the pan and discard it. It has fulfilled its garlic destiny.
Add the onions, fennel and Swiss chard stems, stir to coat with the oil and season with salt, to taste. Stir in the white wine and the lemon zest and juice. Cover and cook over medium heat until the veggies have become soft and wilted but still maintain some texture, about 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the lid and cook until most of the liquid has reduced, another 3 to 4 minutes. Toss in the Swiss chard leaves, stir to combine and season with salt, to taste. When the leaves have wilted but still look vibrantly green, taste for seasoning. Reseason if needed (it probably will). Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

I assume most of you have never eaten New Zealand spinach until now.  It is rarely available, but grows well here after spring spinach has gone to seed (because the days were getting longer!).  Here are a few ideas: 

Tetragon (New Zealand Spinach) Pasta (from chocolateandzucchini.com)

7 ounces short pasta
4 generous handfuls tetragon leaves (a.k.a. New Zealand spinach)
a pinch chili pepper flakes
1 clove garlic, finely minced
4 filets salted anchovies packed in oil, drained and quickly rinsed to remove excess salt
olive oil
freshly grated nutmeg
salt, pepper
parmesan or pecorino, freshly grated, for serving

Bring salted water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente.

While the pasta is cooking, heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add a good swirl of olive oil, and when hot, add the chili pepper and garlic, and cook for a minute or two without coloring. Add the anchovies and crush them with a wooden spoon so they'll dissolve in the olive oil.

Add the tetragon to the skillet, sprinkle it with a touch of nutmeg, stir, and let it soften just a little (not too much!) in the heat. Remove from the heat. (Alternatively, if you wish to blanch the tetragon because you're concerned about the oxalic acid -- see note above --, add it to the pot of pasta during the last 30 seconds of cooking to blanch it instead of sautéing it.)

When the pasta is al dente, drain (not too thoroughly; keeping a little of the starchy cooking water makes it silkier) and pour into the skillet. Toss to combine over low heat, sprinkle with pepper and divide between two warmed pasta bowls. Top with grated cheese and serve immediately.

Aussie Alfredo
12 ounces tagliatelle or fettucine
1 pint heavy cream
1/2 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
2 cups cooked shredded or diced chicken meat
2 cups cooked New Zealand spinach (or spinach or chard leaves), coarsely chopped
Salt and fresh ground pepper
1/2 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts
Optional:
Halved red and yellow cherry tomatoes tossed in balsamic vinegar and olive oil.
Grated parmesan cheese.
 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to the package directions until al dente. Drain.
2. While the pasta cooks, heat the cream in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until reduced by half, stirring often.
3. Stir in the chicken stock, nutmeg, chicken, and greens. Heat until ingredients are warmed through. Mix in the pasta. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add more broth if the mixture seems too thick.
4. Pour the pasta into a serving bowl and sprinkle with the hazelnuts. If desired, serve with the tomato salad sprinkled on top of the pasta to balance the richness of the sauce.

Most folks usually welcome the arrival of summer squash, although by August they are usually ready to see it gone!  We are growing several heirloom varieties this season, including Summer Crookneck Squash (grown by Native Americans prior to colonist arrival), Cocozelle, and Tatume squash (a Tex-Mex border specialty that does well in hot, dry weather, see http://www.survivalblog.com/cgi-bin/mt5/mt-search.cgi?search=tatume&IncludeBlogs=2&limit=20).  A summer squash recipe or two for those of you who struggle with it.

Summer Squash and Citrus Pesto Salad (from Tucson CSA)  
I really recommend trying summer squash this way as a pasta replacement.  Make any sauce you want.
1 share summer squash (4-5 small squash)
2 loose cups of basil
1 jalapeno lightly chopped
1/3-1/2 cup of chopped walnuts or whole pine nuts
3 cloves of garlic (roughly chopped)
1 teaspoon sea salt and
Black pepper to taste
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Zest of one lemon, juice from half the lemon
Blend basil, jalapeno, garlic, 1/4 cup nuts, 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/3 cup of olive oil in a food processor or blender until it becomes a fine paste. Thinly slice the summer squash into ribbons. Toss summer squash with about 1/2 cup of the pesto or to taste.
Add lemon zest and juice to the salad. Add remaining nuts and toss. Check seasonings to taste.
If this makes more pesto than you can use for the squash, it will easily keep for at least a week in the fridge. Use it on pasta, rice, or other dishes.

Italian Scones

1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
2 tsp  granulated organic sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cold and cut into small pieces
3/4 cup  old-fashioned rolled oats
1/2 cup summer squash, minced
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup fennel, minced (Yes, it has fennel, too!)
1/2 cup eggplant, minced
1/2 cup mozzerella cheese, shredded
1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped
2/3 cup (160 ml) buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C) and place rack in center of oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl place the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, baking powder and whisk to combine. Add the butter and using two knives or a pastry blender cut in the butter until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add the rolled oats, vegetables and cheese. Mix until combined. Stir in the buttermilk (adding more buttermilk if necessary) and mix just until the dough comes together.

Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead the dough four or five times and then pat, or roll, the dough into a circle that is 7 inches (18 cm) round and about 1 1/2 inches (3.75 cm) thick. Cut this circle into 8 circular sections. Place the scones on the prepared baking sheet.

Bake for about 15 – 18 minutes or until lightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove from oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool.